The Carolina Wren (right) is just one of the many birds that are visiting the farm here in the fall. We were so excited last week to have a pair of Pileated Woodpeckers return last week. They were flying through the orchard early in the afternoon. They are truly magnificent birds. If you are looking for a great book about a similar but much rarer Woodpecker to read then I highly recommend The Grail Bird by Tim Gallagher. (the story of the Ivory Billed Woodpecker) You can learn more about this book here:
http://www.birds.cornell.edu/ivory/pastsearches/2004_2005/stories_reports_0405/grail_bird_html/document_viewWe also have Caroline Chickadees (below), Tufted Titmice, House Finches, Mockingbirds, Blue Jays, Starlings, Marsh Wrens, Peregrine Falcons, Cardinals, Goldfinches, Red Winged Blackbirds, Ruby Throated Hummingbirds, Downy Woodpeckers, Hairy Woodpeckers, and one of my very favorite the White Breasted Nuthatch.
You can count birds each day and then submit your results to Ebird!
This is a great project for homeschoolers, or bird lovers. To take care of your feathered friends during the winter you will want to offer them food, and water, especially when your land is all frozen and water is hard to come by.
When winter has left trees barren and daylight hours are few, birds still fill our suburban landscapes. We marvel at the resourcefulness of wild birds as they search out food and warmth through the long winter months.
We can help to provide these birds with food, cover, roosting areas, and nesting spots by planting native seed and berry-producing trees, shrubs, and vines. Should we also set out feeders? Experts disagree as to whether backyard bird feeding makes a significant difference for whole bird populations, but for the individual birds in your own backyard, feeding certainly can help. Winter feeding also gives you a chance to observe wild birds at close range.
When to feed—Feed more often at times of peak energy demand, such as during temperature extremes, nesting season, migration, and in late winter or early spring, when natural seed sources are depleted.
Where to feed—Birds are most likely to eat where they feel safe. Make sure that there is nearby cover to which birds can quickly escape from predators, such as free-roaming cats. Place ground-level feeders in spots where predators cannot hide easily, and set up a loose mesh fence around the feeder.
If the feeders are near a window, alter the appearance of the glass to help reduce window collisions. Try covering windows with a fine plastic garden netting, placing hawk silhouettes about four inches apart on the outside of the window, or painting a scene on the window's exterior with soap. Many birds will feed at more than one level, but they do have their preferences.
Ground level: mourning doves, sparrows, towhees, juncos
Table level: cardinals, finches, and jays Hanging feeders: titmice, goldfinches, chickadees
Tree trunks: woodpeckers, nuthatches, wrens
Selecting a feeder—Plastic, steel, or glass feeders are best because they are easy to clean. Feeders with porous surfaces, such as wood or clay, can be difficult to clean and may grow dangerous algae and fungi. Smaller feeders empty out more quickly, so there's less chance of wet, spoiled seeds. Rain can be a problem, so make sure the feeder has drainage holes, and consider placing a plastic dome on top.
Proper maintenance—Regular upkeep is necessary to keep your feeder free from contamination by disease-causing bacteria.
Set up more than one feeder and allow ample space between feeders.
Choose feeders that have no sharp edges or points. To help keep food cleaner, use feeders that allow birds to perch away from the food.
Clean feeders often. Immerse them in a 5–10 percent solution of chlorine bleach and warm water for two or three minutes. Scrub with a stiff brush or a scouring pad, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and dry completely before refilling. Clean feeders designed for ground-feeding birds every two days.
Rake up spilled seeds, hulls, and feces at least once a week.
Keep seed dry, free of mold, and safe from squirrels by storing it in a metal can with a tight-fitting lid, such as a clean garbage can. Discard damp seed.
In wet weather, put out only enough seed to last several hours.
If you notice dead birds or obviously sick birds (they're less active and less alert) near your feeding station, stop feeding immediately. Discard all seed; then clean and disinfect all feeders and the ground below them. Wait a week before resuming feeding.
Water—Birds need water year-round for drinking and bathing. Set up at least one birdbath. The surface should be easy to clean, and there should be a gently sloping shallow end. Place the birdbath away from the feeders to keep the water from being contaminated. Rinse the birdbath daily before refilling it, and clean it once a week, using a 5–10 percent solution of chlorine bleach. You can use a birdbath heater that has a built-in thermostat to warm up the water just enough to keep it from freezing. Never add antifreeze or other chemicals to the water.
In your absence—Keep your feeding schedule consistent, but don't worry if you must stop feeding briefly—while traveling, for example. Wild birds will find other food in your absence, especially in suburban areas, where other bird feeders are just a short flight away. If you live in a rural or isolated area, however, try to arrange to have a neighbor maintain the feeders in your absence, just as you would have someone look after your pets or houseplants.
Providing food for wild birds will help the winter pass more comfortably for them, while adding interest and activity to your winter days. Come spring, as the nesting season unfolds, you'll have the added pleasure of recognizing many of the birds as individuals.
Excerpted and adapted from The HSUS's brochure, Backyard Feeding of Wild Birds.
Big Red is our head rooster. We have three roosters right now. Red watches carefully over all the hens. He warns them of danger, and when he finds food he calls to them with a beautiful clucking call. I love to watch him. He doesn't share his hens with the other roosters, and if they try to get too close to the hens he chases them off. There have been some scuffles when the white rooster tries to challenge him, but he has won every battle so far. If you are going to have laying hens I highly recommend one rooster, and no more for your hens. If you have a large number, say over 20 then you may want two of them. Choose your breed carefully especially if you have small children. Right now we have three roosters. The Silver Laced Wyandotte had gone after me and my four year old, so he will be turned into chicken soup soon.
I am almost positive that Big Red is a New Hampshire Red. I didn't order him, I just bought him at the local Farm and Garden store. If something happens to him, I will definitely consider buying another one. So far he is very friendly even with my daughter. She has spent a lot of time with him because he is her chicken. She loves to hold him, and he does very well. 
